Mowing, watering and weed control
The keys to an eye-catching lawn
by Tim Cole - March 2007
Tim Cole is a Turf Manager with Ryan Lawn & Tree. He can be reached at 913-381-1505.Are you already in the grips of cabin fever from the winter season? If so, there is good news ahead in spring, once we get through the cold, snowy winter. Yes, spring is closer than you think. While we are not basking in the sun yet, now is an excellent time to think about and plan some early steps to produce an eye-popping lawn and landscape. Today, I will focus on a few simple, but important, keys to a successful lawn.
Apply a pre-emergent
First, applying a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring months will save you from the perils of the dreaded weed known as crabgrass later in the year. It may be applied as a one-step or as a two-step control depending on which product is selected. Whichever product you use, apply it at the label rate and water it in for activation. This is critical to the success of the product.
If using a one-step product, apply in February or March. If using a two-step control, apply once in either February or March and then again in April or May. If using the two-step method, make sure to space the applications 5 to 8 weeks apart. Always check the label for best application details. If you are planning on seeding in spring, check the label to be sure the product will not keep the seed from coming up. Some pre-emergents will tolerate seeding and some will not.
Broadleaf weed control (dandelions, clover, chickweed etc.) can be applied in late March, April and May as needed when temperatures warm up and these weeds are visible in the lawn. This is the best time of the year to control these weeds.
Mow properly
The second key to a great lawn is mowing. Mow the lawn at 1.5 inches to 2 inches the first one or two mowings for cool-season grasses in March. This will clean any dead or weakened plant matter from the lawn. This will also help remove leaves that were left on the lawn. Be sure to bag the clippings for the first mowing.
Warm-season grasses like bermudagrasses and zoysia should be mowed at the lowest mower setting in mid-April. (Again, bag the clippings.)
The last element with regard to spring mowing: be sure any pre-emergent products for crabgrass control applied before the first short mowing are watered in before mowing low. This will aid the effectiveness of the pre-emergent.
Water sufficiently
The last key to an eye-popping lawn is to supply the lawn with sufficient soil moisture. This will give the products you apply optimal effectiveness. This will also encourage the best spring growth and color. This may mean dragging out a hose on above-freezing days if underground sprinklers have not been turned on. The following guidelines are recommended for total moisture a lawn needs to thrive.
Temperatures - Water needed (cool-season grasses)
<60 degrees - once every two weeks
60-70 degrees - once a week
70-80 degrees - twice a week
80-90 degrees - three times a week
>90 degrees - three to six times a week
Warm-season grasses should be watered once every two weeks through the end of April in the absence of rainfall.
In summary, a healthy, weed-free lawn is attainable with a few simple but important steps. If each one is followed, success—and a eye-catching lawn—can be yours. And, while it’s true that it matters most how you finish, it’s also very true that how you start your lawn may determine how your lawn finishes. All the best for a lush, green lawn!